There's a phrase we say behind the counter every week: "Can I have a glass of the house wine?" And every time we say it, we're a little proud of it. Because our house wine isn't the anonymous shot that most places serve. Our house wine is the Tokaj wine from Holdvölgy Winery in Mád - a winery that is one of the most awarded wineries in the country, and whose wines are on the wine lists of dozens of Michelin-starred restaurants around the world.
This is not a coincidence, nor is it a marketing ploy. Just as we don't buy the cheapest bag of coffee, the same logic applies to wine: we would rather work with one partner we trust than ten we don't know.
In this post, we'll tell you who Holdvölgy is and guide you through the Holdvölgy selection we're serving at Smúz. The winery's offering is much broader than that – we've selected our favorites for our wine list, depending on whether you're craving a light sip on Kossuth Square or you're here to celebrate.
Who are Holdvölgy, and why do we trust them?
Holdvölgy farms in Mád, in the heart of the Tokaj wine region, on the most historically valuable vineyards of the wine region. The estate has grown from a half-hectare vineyard received as a birthday gift to an estate of nearly 30 hectares, spanning seven vineyards. They work only with their own grapes, striving exclusively for premium quality.
Under the winery lies a nearly 2-kilometer-long, three-story historical cellar labyrinth. The cellar labyrinth was opened centuries ago from the cellars of count families (Andrássy, Csáky, Károlyi). The winery building is a contemporary architectural award winner. Their wines are gold medalists in domestic and international wine competitions. The Hungarian sommelier profession also elected them the best Hungarian winery. Their cellar tour won the Vince Awards "Best Cellar Tour" award.
When you drink Tokaj wine at Smúz, you are drinking the work of an award-winning winery in Mád.
The Holdvölgy list at Smúz: what to drink and when
Hold and Hollo – the house wine for every day
Hold and Hollo is Holdvölgy's youthful, lighter series. These bottles are marked with famous, brightly colored silicone labels. This is their house wine: the wine we pour when someone simply wants a good glass of Tokaji to accompany a conversation, without rushing. It is fresh, drinkable, not intrusive, yet it still has the character of the Tokaji terroir. This is the wine that you can safely ask for "just because", and yet you will feel like you got something valuable for your money. That is exactly why it was made into the house wine.
UPPP – the bubbles behind our spritz
When the weather is nice and the terrace season is here, UPPP is their favorite. This is the semi-dry sparkling wine from Hold and Hollo. It has orangey, dynamic bubbles and peachy-citrus fruitiness. It's also a great refresher on its own. It's often the basis for a spritz here. Where else would you go for a simple prosecco with Aperol, they raise their glass to Tokaj sparkling wine. The next time you order a spritz at Kossuth Square, know that not just any bubbles will be included.
"Pink" – Hold and Hollo's sweet, magenta-labeled wine
The basis of their sweet line is their sweet Tokaji with a magenta-pink label, Hold and Hollo. They just call it: the pink. It has peach, orange peel, honey and a pinch of cinnamon. This is the wine that shows that sweet Tokaji is not heavy and boring, but can also be light and elegant. It is the perfect entry point for those who are just getting to know sweet wines. With dessert or on its own, at the end of the day – both work.
Meditation – the premium Furmint for special moments
When a guest wants something more serious, they recommend the Meditation Furmint. This is Holdvölgy's elegant, fancy-named, premium estate line. It's a clean, deep, thoughtful dry Furmint. It shows what the Tokaj vineyard can do if the winemaker really pays attention. This is the glass you drink slowly. You sit down for it. You chat with a conversational companion about it. If you want to pamper yourself or impress someone on a date – this is the tip.
Culture Aszú – the wine for celebrations
The crown: the Tokaj aszú. The 6-puttonyos aszú of the Holdvölgy Culture series is the pinnacle of a centuries-old tradition. The winery has been making it in every vintage since 2006. This is a rare achievement even in the wine region. It is bottled after a long, multi-year maturation. Every sip is a small celebration. For them, aszú is for the big moments of your life. When there is something to celebrate, that is when it comes. A small glass at the end, and the evening will be memorable.
What goes with what? A few tips from behind the bar
A conversational afternoon: Hold and Hollo, the house wine – light and doesn't take the focus off the subject.
Terrace and sunshine: UPPP, on its own or as a spritz.
For those with a sweet tooth: pink, like a slice of cookie.
Date or celebration: Meditation furmint, sipping slowly.
Real opportunity: Culture aszú, the perfect ending.
You don't have to be a wine expert. Just tell them what mood you're in and they'll do the rest.
Frequently asked questions
What is Smúz's house wine?
The house wine in Smúz is the Hold and Hollo Tokaji wine from Holdvölgy Winery in Mád. This is their light, youthful line. It is recommended for everyday consumption, by the glass.
Where can you drink good Tokaj wine in central Budapest?
In Smúz Café, under Kossuth Lajos Square 18. It is located right next to the Parliament. They will be holding a selection from the rich offer of Holdvölgy. From the light sparkling wine to the 6-puttonyos aszú.
What wine do you use for Aperol spritz?
For their spritz, they use Holdvölgy Hold and Hollo UPPP semi-dry Tokaj sparkling wine instead of the usual prosecco. It's a slightly more exciting bubbly.
Is there sweet wine and aszú on offer?
Yes. The sweet line is based on the sweet ("pink") Tokaji of Hold and Hollo. And for festive occasions, there is the Holdvölgy Culture 6 puttonyos aszú.
Where can I find the Smoothie?
Smúz Café – 1055 Budapest, Kossuth Lajos tér 18. Specialty coffee during the day, wine and cocktails in the evening. A step away from the Parliament.
Come on, let's have a toast.
Wine is a world apart from coffee for them. The same attitude is behind it. Good ingredients, a good partner, and a place where it's nice to sit. If you're curious about what it's like when an award-winning Tokaj winery becomes the house wine, come to Kossuth Square. Start with a glass of Hold and Holló. They're waiting for you here. Check out our Kossuth Square café too, if you're planning a whole day.
